Bike Milk is recommended by elite racers, weekend warriors, mechanics and the best bike shops as their preferred chain lube
Bike Milk is recommended by elite racers, weekend warriors, mechanics and the best bike shops as their preferred chain lube. The advanced lubricant formulation penetrates, cleans and degreases then dries to leave a thin, protective, anti-corrosion and dirt-repelling film on the important bits inside the chain. This means the chain runs cleaner and quieter than any other chain lube in wet and dry conditions. Why not try it to see why it is the lube of choice for those who know.
Bike Milk is better than all the other chain lubes because it:
Effectively penetrates, cleans and degreases dirty chains.
Leaves a protective film on the inside and outside surfaces of the chain rollers, pins and plates.
Chain stays cleaner for longer with no greasy, sticky, wet residue attracting grime on the drivetrain surfaces.
Great value for money (175ml pack) which lasts longer.
Also available in convenient 50ml or economical 900ml workshop pack.
Proudly created and made in Australia.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE
Stage 1: cleaning chain
1) Adjust chain onto smallest rear sprocket.
2) Shake BIKE MILK vigorously to re-suspend and disperse the solid lubricant.
3) Rotate chain backwards and direct soaking stream of BIKE MILK onto moving chain at cassette. The chain should be visibly coated with BIKE MILK and look wet.
4) Continue reverse chain rotation to allow BIKE MILK to penetrate, clean and coat moving surfaces of the chain.
5) Thoroughly wipe excess cleaner and lubricant off chain using dry cloth. This is important because the BIKE MILK will dissolve the grease and dirt from the chain and carry it to the outer surfaces, and this needs to be removed from the chain.
For a very dirty or wet chain which has been gummed up with other lubricants or washed with water then this cleaning process may need to be repeated several times.
A full degrease is best if this is the first time Bike Milk has been used on the chain. Directions on a full degrease are shown in video below.
Stage 2: Lubricate and protect
6) Rotate chain backwards and direct soaking stream of BIKE MILK onto moving chain at cassette. The chain should be visibly coated with BIKE MILK and look wet.
7) Continue reverse chain rotation to allow BIKE MILK to penetrate and coat moving surfaces of the chain.
8) Allow the BIKE MILK to dry on all of the metal surfaces of the chain to form a protective lubricating film. Leaving overnight is recommended.
9) Repeat this apply/dry lube process several times if chain has been fully degreased or a thicker film is required for endurance rides.
The BIKE MILK should be left to dry on the chain to provide a protective water-repellant lube coating on both the inner and outer surfaces of the drivetrain. If the gaps inside the chain (between rollers, pins and plates) are packed with a tenacious lubricant it will help prevent dirt and water from wicking into the gaps and increasing friction and wear.
When riding for longer than 4hr or in wet and muddy conditions it is best to re-lube the chain. And remember to ensure the whole bike is thoroughly cleaned, dried and checked over after the ride.
For dry riding conditions it is an option to wipe residue from the surface of the chain with a clean rag prior to riding. The chain will look clean on the outside and is less attractive to dust . The lube remains active on the internal surfaces.
Because there is no "wet" residue left on the chain Bike Milk runs clean and smooth for long periods.
Experienced riders intuitively know that a clean and well lubricated chain gives better performance. Can this be quantified? Friction Facts in the US have setup a lab to test friction in the drivetrain using the piece of equipment shown below. Basically a torque load is applied to the rear axle to simulate the load at the rear wheel. The chain is setup just like a bike drivetrain. Friction losses due to the drivetrain are measured with one transducer on the front drive shaft and one on the rear load shaft. When the equipment is being used both sensors measure the torque on their respective shafts. It is assumed that the difference between the power measured at the rear axle and the power measured at the front axle is the friction loss due to the drivetrain. If the rear sensor is measuring 250 watts and the front sensor is measuring 265 watts, then the drivetrain loss is 15 watts, i.e. the chain is “94% efficient.”